珠光、哑光、提亮……市面上有太多的底妆产品,但其实我们最希望打造的底妆效果还是接近素颜的完美“裸妆”,只要能够遮住讨厌的斑点痘印、黑头红肿,谁希望看上去像个浓妆艳抹的老妖怪?

虽然很多底妆产品都打着“裸妆”的旗号,但我们还是时常被各种问题困扰:卡粉、干裂、色泽不均……很多时候我们精心炮制的底妆往往只是让我们呈现出更加糟糕的状态。如果你也是底妆灾难的受害者,那今天的推荐一定适合你,我们请教了各位美装大神,送给你一份完整的“裸妆”打造宝典!

Luminous, dewy, bronzy, matte, semi-matte — as much as we love those adjectives, we really just want our foundation to make our skin look like, well, skin (minus the redness, acne scars, fine lines, and sun spots, natch). And while foundation can sometimes do a really good job of this, other times, not so much. Pigments settle into fine lines. Powders cake over blemishes. Textures clash. Shades don’t match. That foundation that you applied to make your skin look better, actually ends up making it look a lot worse.

No longer.

We tapped top makeup pros for their tips on applying the most natural-looking foundation possible. Click ahead for a no-makeup makeup masterclass — and never curse out your pigments again.


 

打底前做好充分准备

Prep, Prep, & Tnatural-look-4hen Prep Some More

大部分的人们总是维持着化妆水,或者隔离霜,然后打底的基本程序,但其实没有任何一个化妆师会这么做。知名造型师Tim Quinn 说道:“在后台,化妆也许只需要2分钟,但肌肤的打理却是一个20到30分钟的过程。”

大部分化妆师在位艺人上妆之前都会先敷上舒缓化妆水或是面膜,接着进行精油按摩,再以按摩的手法涂上面霜与眼霜,每一个步骤间留出时间让精华被肌肤完全吸收。“如果你没有完全的让肌肤舒缓湿润,底妆就会出现问题。”

You know how you typically slap on some moisturizer, maybe a primer, and get straight to work with the tinted stuff? Yeah, makeup artists never do that. “Backstage, skin can be a 20-30 minute process then the makeup is two minutes,” says Tim Quinn, makeup artist and national director of creative artistry for Armani Beauty.

 

Most artists start with a soothing toner or mask, then they massage in oils, serums, face creams, and eye creams in small, circular motions — waiting a few minutes between each step to allow them to settle. “If you don’t have proper hydration in the skin and you go to put on foundation, that’s when your skin freaks out,” says Quinn.

 


 

保湿是重中之重

Moisture Is Everything

natural-look-1

干燥的肌肤会将产品中的保湿成分过快的消耗,然后在让你的底妆变成一张恐怖的白面具。如果你属于油性肌肤,在日常的化妆步骤之外一定注意加上按摩的步骤,通过按摩让肌肤能够更好地吸收保湿产品中的水分。

Dehydrated skin will suck up any moisture in the product and leave a finish that looks fake and obvious, Stern adds. If you have oily skin, continue with your regular routine, but don’t skimp on that massage, which boosts circulation and makes the skin look brighter.

This priming moisturizer won’t replace your go-to base, but it will let you layer up on hydration.

 


 

选对隔离霜

Rethink Your Primer

natural-look-5

隔离霜并不代表你一定需要将它涂膜覆盖全脸,Ariana Grande的化妆师Daniel Chinchilla推荐大家使用“鸡尾酒法则”:将具有控油功能的隔离霜涂抹在面部的T区,然后其他部位使用基本的保湿款隔离.“大部分油性肌肤的人事实上都存在混合肌,如果你将哑光隔离霜涂在脸部干燥区域,底妆就会出现卡粉。”

Just because it’s called primer doesn’t mean you should smear it all over your face. Makeup artist Daniel Chinchilla (who works with Ariana Grande) recommends cocktailing formulas — smooth on an oil-controlling primer in the T-zone and a silicone-based one for the rest of the face. “Most people who have oily skin really have some form of combination skin,” says Chinchilla. “And if you put a matte primer over a dry area, it will take away the moisture and make it look cakey.”

 


 

打底前先遮瑕

Conceal Before Foundation

natural-look-1

和我们想的不一样,遮瑕膏其实应该用在底妆产品之前。在打底之前先将重点部位例如黑眼圈进行遮盖,再上底妆就会让肤色显得更加均匀,也避免了因为想要遮住瑕疵导致底妆过后变面具脸的问题。

If you start slapping on foundation without concealing blemishes or undereye circles first, you’re going to overcompensate and end up using way too much product — and it will show. Instead, take care of them with a lightweight concealer first. Then, assess how much foundation you need from there.

 


 

增加阴影

Add Depth

natural-look-2

如果你想要骗过众人以为你今天根本没有上妆,那就为自己的底妆增加一点阴影吧。在脸颊的下方打上阴影,让面部呈现出自然的光影效果。

If you want to fool everyone into thinking you’re not wearing makeup and just have naturally great skin, this is for you. Suck in your cheeks and swipe the darker shade across the indentation, then blend out and tap the highlighter above. Done.

 


 

先上腮红

Blush First, Too

natural-look-2

虽然听起来有些不可思议,不过许多化妆时同样建议在打底前先上腮红,这样可以让面部呈现出自然的美感。只是在使用这个方法的时候一定要使用膏状腮红,如果你在粉底液的下面先打上了粉状的腮红,那就等着闹笑话吧。

It sounds crazy, but applying blush before foundation will give your skin a natural-looking flush (like it’s actually coming from within your skin and not just sitting on top of your foundation). Makeup artists like Quinn and Dick Page use this trick all the time backstage at fashion shows. Just be sure to only use cream formulas — layering a powder blush under a liquid foundation is a recipe for disaster, warns Quinn.

 


 

补救措施

Take It Down

natural-look-3

如果你不幸出现底妆过后的情况,可以采用Quinn的方法进行补救:用一只大化妆刷沾上保湿精华然后轻扫面部。这样可以让底妆减淡同时也正加一些体量的效果。

If you overdo it (it happens!), try this tip from Quinn: “I lightly dip a big powder brush in a plain moisturizer and sweep it over the skin — the same way you would apply powder,” he says. “That takes the foundation down a bit and adds a subtle illuminating effect.”

 

H/S: refinery29