为2016 秋冬时装秀场打响头阵的伦敦男装周已尾声。向来以新锐先锋的态度区别于其它男装周的伦敦设计师们在新一年里，又会送上哪些诡谲的创意和引人注目的亮点呢? 拥有伦敦艺术大学麾下六所学院济济人才的支持，伦敦男装周最不缺乏的就是天马行空的创意，这里聚集的往往都是最新鲜、最富有热情的新锐设计师，伦敦男装周是完成他们时装梦的一个重要平台。如果你够包容、够爱玩儿，那么伦敦男装周的创意一定会让你拍手称赞。
Craig Green 是近年伦敦男装周最受瞩目的设计新星，本季的Craig Green 依旧沿用一贯的设计语言，继续将制服化和捆绑带来的保护感玩得有趣。 JWAnderson 只是将拳击小范围地融入鞋履之中，Sibling 则是打造了一整季的拳击少年。拳击手套、短裤、头盔、袍子悉数登场；红蓝黑黄的穿插让整个系列有节奏地跳跃；模特们佩戴的奖章看起来也十分有趣。对伦敦男装周来说，这些拳击套装有多少实穿性倒是不太重要，重要的是足够天马行空。 Alexander McQueen 不玩死亡美学好几年，但这一季模特嘴上的别针却格外引人注目。为了呼应服装上的蝴蝶、飞蛾所呈现的死亡意味，仿佛刺穿面孔的别针看起来也是有点触目惊心。这样的设计让人联想起Givenchy 之前的犬牙耳钉和鼻环，一方面是为品牌营造噱头，另一方面也绝对会获得fashion victim 的青睐。
这些衣服值得你入手这么多风格不一的秀看下来，有哪些衣服是真的值得你入手的呢？我们或许能给你一些帮助。如果你是大胆会玩，有时装精神的人，那么Craig Green、JWAnderson、Christopher Shannon 这些品牌最值得你尝试。别看他们的total look 那么难驾驭，其实每件单品单拎出来穿着都会成为点睛之笔。
This past weekend London Collections Men kicked off the New Year with their four-day fashion showcase. The showcase featured over 70 British and international designers’ autumn-winter 2016 collections. It ran from January 8, 2016 – January 11, 2016. For those of you who are unfamiliar with London Collections Men (LCM), it is a spin-off fashion showcase founded in 2012 by the famous annual London Fashion Week and has been held biannually since. London Fashion Week is also known as one of the “Big Four” fashion weeks in the world and has been held biannually every year since 1984.
Dylan Jones, editor of British GQ Magazine, tells guests
“This is the biggest LCM yet since we started in 2012.”
LCM has grown exponentially since its first show case and notable designers of the new generation such as JW Anderson, Craig Green, and duo Agi & Sam have now taken center stage at the event. The showcase welcomes menswear enthusiasts from everywhere; fashion buyers, new media and fashion junkies who want a taste of the new trends to come in 2016 menswear. LCM is much more than just any men’s fashion week, it represents London entirely and the British are proud. New York has recently followed suit as well with its New York Fashion Week: Men’s that started this past July.
Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, said “There’s a real energy here in London, and the LCM concept has made real waves. We have created an identity and celebration of men’s fashion where there wasn’t one, boosting the profile of businesses of all ages and stages to give them real commercial clout. We know we’re being noticed now and that’s fantastic. London is the style capital of the world right now.”
Some of the biggest trends to note from the showcase include gender-bending menswear, sport gear over sportswear, jumpsuits, loose trousers, satin and silks, shearling, copper and dark green, and minimalist menswear…oh and safety pins?
Good job London, we look forward to more!
You can find highlights of the London Collections Men showcase on the British Fashion Council YouTube channel!